The Low-Down on Finger Strength Training ... Change it up!

When it comes to finger training, the science is getting more and more consolidated. In 2019, we now know more about how different training methods (protocols) work for different types of climbers than ever before. It’s possible to drown in the detail but the #1 take home message is this: it is necessary to cycle your training (not staying with one protocol too long) if you want to avoid a plateau. That means you need a board that allows for a maximum of variety in training methods.


The three single most popular hangboard training protocols are:

  1. Max Hangs
  2. Minimum Edge Hangs
  3. Repeaters (or “Intermittent Hangs”)

Max Hangs

WIth max hangs, you choose an edge size that is relatively comfortable, generally around 20mm give or take, and you add weight to your body until you can only hang on for a given period of time that you have chosen in advance (this may vary from as low as 3 seconds to as long as 12 seconds). You rest well (say 1-2 mins), and then repeat for a number of sets.

The Awesome Woodys Home Boy has a 20mm edge specifically for max hangs

Minimum Edge Hangs

With minimum edge hangs, you choose your hang duration as above, but instead of adding weight, you decrease the size of the edge as you progress. Having a board that offers a gradually decreasing size of accurately machined edges is critical for this very effective protocol. Most hangboards do not offer this.

The Awesome Woodys Dead Hang Board offers edges from 20mm down to 6mm in 2mm increments,The Home Boy offers edges from 20mm down to 8mm in 2mm increments, and then a 7mm edge.

Repeaters (or “Intermittent Hangs”

Repeaters are sets of hangs separated by very short rests (only a few seconds). They can be scaled (made harder) by adding weight, or by moving down in edge size.

You can find more information about these protocols all over the internet, on any of the popular climbing training podcasts, or in your Awesome Woodys information sheet that comes with the Home Boy


Cycling between these three protocols (e.g. 6 weeks of minimum edge, 5 weeks of max hangs, 8 weeks of repeaters and repeat) applies continual varied stimulus to your physiology and is a sure-fire way to keep improving, rather than plateauing after your 10th week of max hangs.

I believe the Awesome Woodys Home Boy is the single best board on the market currently that allows me to train all three of these protocols and countless variations, all on the one board.


How long have you been hangboarding consistently? This is your “training age” for hangboarding.

  For those brand new to finger training

After numerous scientific studies, noted finger strength researcher Eva Lopez determined that relatively untrained individuals would be best served using a minimum edge protocol (i.e. without weight). Why? Because they would see the same rate of adaptations (compared to max hangs with weight) with lower stress on the structures. Those new to hangboarding may have the most fun because the gains are rapid! After just a single phase of minimum edge training (5-8 weeks), many people see a 20-30% gain in finger strength! Epic!

For those with training age 1-3 years:

Consistency is key. Ensuring you plan your sessions and are doing enough, without overdoing it. One session a week will ensure you maintain your current level. Two sessions a week should be enough to keep you improving. Do you have a training log? Are you recording your hangs, bodyweight, weight added, size of edge, length of hang? If not - you’re going to want to, so you can keep your motivation up, fine tune your variables, and keep improving.
For well-trained climbing athletes:
Plateau-busting and lifelong improvement is our goal. A focus on fine-tuning, switching things up before you stagnate, and introducing a variety of grip types on various sized holds has been shown to be key for elites.



The Awesome Woodys Home Boy allows climbers of all levels access to simply a better training tool with more fine-grained level of control over hold size, with edges from 20mm down to 8mm in 2mm increments and then a 7mm edge. If you’re serious about finger training, you need to check out this board. 

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